Kegon Waterfalls (華厳滝)

Wow… it has been a really long time since I've graced your presence with my exquisite writing. Be still your beating heart. And this post isn't even about a temple! I know, I know, I've really outdone myself this time.

I'm here to talk with you about one of the waterfalls in Nikko, called Kegon Waterfalls. Kegon Waterfalls are among the more famous of the waterfalls in Japan. The water falls from 97 meters (318 feet for us Americans). This last paragraph read like a 4th grader's geography essay.

On to the best part… the haunted history! Legend has it that it became a popular spot for suicide after an 18 year old boy (Misao Fujimura) leapt to his death in 1903. He apparently wrote a farewell poem on a tree just before his death, which I have rewritten for you below:

"How mightily and steadily go Heaven and Earth! How infinite the duration of Past and Present! Try to measure this vastness with five feet? A Word explains the truth of the whole Universe - unknowable. To cure my agony, I have decided to die. Now, as I stand on the crest of this rock no uneasiness is left in me. For the first time I know that extreme pessimism and extreme optimism are one."

Romantic. It also must have taken a long time to carve that into a tree. At any rate, the falls have now become a famous place for the Romeo and Juliets of the world -- thankfully I saw no suicidal lovers when I was there.

Time for the photos!

Around that area was also a lake (Lake Chuzenji)… the weather was so insane that it honestly looked more like a bay of an ocean.

The. End.

Haedong Yonggungsa Temple 해동 용궁사 (Busan, South Korea)

My next post is not about me in Japan but about me in Korea! No, I will not be changing my blog title to "Kelli in Korea", though I enjoy the alliteration. Due to leave restrictions, I spent my time in Busan, South Korea.

After my attempt to go to the DMZ failed (apparently we're not allowed to wear shorts), I decided I had to make up for it by going somewhere else that was cool... after some internet sleuthing I decided on Haedong Yonggungsa Temple. I know, another temple. I just can't seem to get enough of it! So much so, that I endured a 20 minute bus ride with a driver who brought out his anger about his job by passive aggressively making brutal stops and turns. I nearly fell down at least five times!

So why Haedong temple? Mostly because it's literally right by the sea... I have never seen a temple where there were massive waves splashing on the rocks below it.

The story of this temple's creation revolves around the dream of a monk named Naong. In this dream, a sea god of the East Sea appeared and told him to build a temple at the edge of Bongrae Mountain and the nation would strengthen and become awesome. You see, Korea was apparently in the middle of a big natural disaster (famine, drought, etc), so Naong took the god's advice and built a temple. Unfortunately, the original temple burned down when those damn Japanese came and invaded Korea in 1592. The temple was rebuilt and renamed to its current incarnation.

When you first enter the temple grounds, you run across statues of the twelve zodiac figures. They are supposed to help protect the temple. I took a picture with my zodiac animal, the Rat!

After that, I came across a nine-tiered pagoda with an accompanying tire that you could pray to for traffic safety. I probably should have spent more time there.

On one side was a gold buddha statue. I'm not quite sure what it stood for and thus far my search has been fruitless.

After that, we came across a turtle statue thingy where you could throw coins and get good luck! Shaun tried but couldn't get any coins in. Fail.

After that, we came to the main temple area. There were statues of two big gold pigs, one dragon (for the Dragon King) and a giant golden dharma.

There was also a cool painting of a dragon that is probably related to the story of the temple's creation but I'm not quite sure how.

Once we climbed up some stairs, we saw the statue of Haesu Gwaneum Daebul ("Great Buddha Goddess of Mercy"). Apparently if you say her name 33 times, you can get good luck! Too bad I didn't realize that at the time.

And that is one day in South Korea!

大阪 (Osaka)

This past weekend, I decided to go to Osaka. I'll be honest, this place held little interest for me... kinda like the exact opposite of trashy reality MTV shows. In the end, though, I was able to find some pretty interesting stuff. Osaka itself is best known for the Osaka Castle but I did not go there, instead wishing to find some other interesting places.

First off was the Shitenno-ji Temple. Whaa? Another temple?!

Now, I know what you're thinking. This one is special, and I'll tell you why... it's the very first Buddhist temple in Japan, built in 593 by a lovely gentleman known as Prince Shotoku. Small disclaimer -- none of the original temple exists... the last bit was rebuilt in the 1960s.

Prince Shotoku was part of the Soga family, who desired to spread Buddhism throughout all of Japan. They had tried earlier but in what turned out to be a pretty big PR disaster, a plague broke out just as Buddhism was picking up. Another issue was that a rival Japanese clan, the Mononobe family, was all about the Shintoism because they held some official Shinto positions. What's two disagreeing clans to do, especially when it comes to religion? Why have a battle, of course!

Together, Soga Umako (the chieftan of the Soga clan) and Prince Shotoku (nephew of Soga Umako) lead their clan to victory. If you buy the Shotoku version, he won the war by praying to the Shitenno (four Buddhist heavenly guardian kings) and offering them a deal... "I'll build you a temple if I win this one, guys!" Guess who won? No, really, guess. You're right (unless you said Mononobe... then you're wrong and obviously didn't read the first part of this paragraph). Soga Umako put his sister, Empress Suiko, on the throne and she, in turn, made Prince Shotoku the regent. And thus began his lineage and the lifelong building of Buddhist temples.

I tried to get fancy with this one... 

The  above few photos also show the Eirei-do, which was a structure for a big bell created to respect Prince Shotoku. After WW2, the bell was "offered" to the government, the place signifies praying for peace of the world.

Wandering around, we also found a lecture hall (Koudou) that had a really cool pebble yard.

Additionally, I gazed from afar (not really feeling like paying the entry fee) of the Garan complex with a 5-story pagoda called Gojunoto. I believe that inside are the remains of Prince Shotoku (or something like that) and probably a few pretty neat Buddhist things that we aren't allowed to take photos of. You know the drill.

There was also a little pond filled with turtles. It was obvious they were captives to the human race, because when we walked over to look at them, they all furiously swam to get some food. Little did they know that we had no food to speak of... suckers.

The Gokuraku-jodo Garden was offset from the temple, but was designed based on descriptions of the "Western Paradise of Amida Buddha". I looked up the description, and apparently it is a land of beauty that surpasses all other realms. It (Wikipedia) also states that entering the Pure Land is the equivalent of attaining enlightenment... boom.

With the excitement of entering an area reserved for the enlightened behind me, I headed to an area of town called Shinsekai.

This wasn't really the real entrance, because it had a much cooler sign than this 1980s version, but there you go. Shinsekai was originally the "New World", as it was created before WW2 when the Industrial Exposition was held here. Then World War 2 happened and it became its new visage... a seedy, slum-town... and I went there. It was quite interesting to see that in Japan, since they are usually so careful about image. Honestly it wasn't much more dangerous than other parts of Tokyo, but it did look very run down. When it was first created, Shinsekai was designed to look one part Paris and two parts Coney Island. The Coney Island part was filled with stalls serving Osaka's famous food kushikatsu (fried food) -- of which I had none. I know. Pathetic.

I am not sure why I failed to take a photo of it, but the Paris version of Shinsekai includes the Tsutenkaku Tower (Shinsekai's version of the Eiffel Tower)... shamelessly I stole a photograph from someone who left their watermark on it.

I also got my photo taken with Biliken, which is not even a Japanese creation! This scary creature was dreamed up by an American woman and represents "The God of Things as They Ought To Be." I guess if you rub its feet, you'll get good luck.

Unfortunately, I didn't get to see everything else in Osaka because torrential downpours from our friendly local typhoon hit us.... but fear not. If I return again, I'll be sure to hit those places up and type a few (ok, a lot) of words about it.

Maneki-Neko (招き猫)

If you spent anytime in Japan, you will soon become familiar with the "Lucky Cat", which is literally (ok, sometimes figuratively) beckoning luck with its little raised paw. Depending on which paw is raised, you either beckon money or luck. The beckoning part is somewhat confusing for westerners, since we usually beckon people by having our palm face upwards and inwards... not so in Japan, my friends! I guess they do it backwards.

Either way, there are apparently two shrines that like to say they are the originator of the Maneki-Neko. WHICH ONE IS LEGIT?! I will let you decide for yourself.

The first one I went to visit is called the Imado Jinja Shrine.

The story of the lucky cat at this shrine comes from a legend of a very poor woman who had a cat. In the ultimate act of betrayal (in my mind), she sold the cat to get whatever money she could... I guess the cat didn't have hard feelings because it came to her in a dream and told her to make clay figurines in its image. She did so and became rich. Lucky.

This particular shrine is more about getting married. The cats here are in pairs and represent a male and female finding their love (I guess you could probably confer this on to homosexual couples).

As such, there were TONS of ema written by lonely girls (more likely... I suppose that's sexist) praying for their one true love.

There were also plenty of other lucky cats around the facilities, including a REAL lucky cat!

Following that, I went to Gotoku-ji Temple.

This temple, which apparently is famous for the grave of an important Japanese warrior, is also a "shrine for the cute cats that wave with one arm raised." That's per their little English information sheet, which believe me, I greatly appreciated since English pamphlets are hard to come by.

Anyway, this temple believes that the lucky cat story started in a much different way. Essentially, a monk lived with a cat, and he was very poor (there seems to be a correlation with having a cat and being poor... hmmm). Having enough of this thankless cat, he told it, "If you are grateful to me, bring some fortune to the temple." The cat was able to wave in six samurai warriors to the temple right before the onset of a big storm, which either lead to not getting wet, not getting struck by lightning, or hearing the monk preach Sanzei-inga-no-hou (past, present, future reasoning sermons), depending on your version of the story. I guess the monk was a really great lecturer because the samurai were so "delighted" by it that they donated rice fields and crop lands to make the temple amazing. The cat who was responsible for all this is said to be in this little urn type thing, as pictured, and its grave site was blessed by the monk.

There was also a big pagoda nearby, and a kind old Japanese guy came around and showed me photos of little cat carvings on the pagoda while speaking profusely in Japanese. I only wish I understood him, because I'm sure he was quite informative. Try and squint at my photos to see if you can find the little kitten statues in the pagoda... I bet you can't!

Off to the right of the pagoda was a cool little cat shrine. You can buy your very own ceramic cat and either place it at the shrine (I'm guessing to wish for luck, money or perhaps your dead cat) or bring it back with you. I naturally brought mine back with me... after all, I'm a crazy cat lady!

Gotokuji Temple
2-24-7, Gotokuji, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
Get off at Odakyu Electric Railway "Gotokuji" Station from Shinjuku, and 5-min walk 
Get off at Tokyu Setagaya Line "Miyanosaka" Station from Sangenjaya, and right outside the station

Imado Shrine 
1-5-22, Imado, Taito-ku, Tokyo
Get off at Tokyo Metro Ginza Line, Asakusa Line or Tobu Isesaki Line "Asakusa" Station, and 15-min walk